Vintage Hawkes Savile Row Wool Overcoat Bespoke Coat for Lt Colonel 1960
Brand Poppy's Vintage Clothing
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This is a superior quality men’s overcoat made in a classic double breasted style made by Savile Row bespoke tailor Hawkes in 1960 (for more information on Hawkes, please read further below). The coat was made for a Lieutenant Colonel. The coat has wide peaked lapels that can be closed and sealed at the neck with the neck closure (see photo). The coat has padded shoulders with epaulets and there is a flapped pocket at either side. It has a button down 18” kick pleat and the coat has a mid-calf length. The coat has two interior pockets and is fully lined in a taupe coloured satin fabric.
Labels: Hawkes of Savile Row
Tailor’s label: Hawkes & Co. Ltd 1 Savile Row London W.I. 68, High St., Camberley. By Appointment to the Late King George V. Date Nov. 8. 1960 Name Lt. Col. A.L. Penhale
Hawkes has a long history, originally founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes. It became a military tailor in 1860 and was the first bespoke tailor on Savile Row to offer ready to wear suits, during the 1920s. I believe, however, that this coat was custom made.
Colour: Taupe - a grey toned brown
Sizing: I see 44/44 handwritten on the tailor’s label, but please rely on the following measurements for fit, taken from the exterior (please take the thickness of the fabric and the cut of the coat into consideration):
Shoulders: 21” across shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam
Sleeves: 26 1/2” from shoulder/sleeve seam
Sleeve Inseam: 18” long
Chest: 48” around, taken under the arms
Waist: 44” around
Hips: 48” around
Overall length: 44 1/2“, measured flat
Condition: This coat is in very good condition with no pronounced wear, tear, stains or odours - the only defects are two small surface finish nibbles, one at the upper right sleeve and another larger one at the right cuff. There is also some wear to the paint on a couple of the painted wood buttons and the button for the kick pleat is missing, although this is easy to replace if desired. Also there are four pinholes on either epaulet, probably caused by military “pips” that the Lt Colonel would have worn. Otherwise, this looks like it saw little use and was well stored over the years.
This is a superior quality coat with very attractive styling and interesting ownership - fit for a Lieutenant Colonel!