Vintage Gieves & Hawkes Savile Row Wool Chesterfield Overcoat Chester Barrie 44
Brand Poppy's Vintage Clothing
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This is a superior quality men’s overcoat made in a classic Chesterfield style by Savile Row tailor Chester Barrie for venerable Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes (for more information on Gieves & Hawkes, please read further below). The coat has the classic features of a Chesterfield overcoat - no waist seam, a single breasted fly front with hidden buttons, a shorter notched lapel with velvet collar, straight side pockets with flaps, no turned cuffs and a single back vent. It does not have a chest pocket as is customary with a Chesterfield - I was wondering if it was removed but I don’t see any evidence of stitching although there is the slightest (and I mean very subtle) shadow. I can’t imagine anyone noticing or being concerned about this. The coat has two interior pockets and is fully lined in a taupe coloured viscose. The coat was large on my mannequin form, so I’ve shown it both loose and pinned back - actual fit on the proper sized body would be between the two.
Age: It is classic in style, so dating this is difficult, but probably late 70s to early 90s.
Labels: Gieves & Hawkes Limited of Savile Row London W.I. with Royal Warrants granted by the Duke of Edinburgh and Her Majesty the Queen appearing both on the outside and inside of the interior pocket. The other pocket reads “Chester Barrie London W.I.”. Made in England appears on the hanger loop at the back of the neck and also on the fabric content label.
Gieves has a long history dating back to a partnership formed in 1852 - it was formed into a limited company in 1887 when James Watson Gieve bought out his partner. They were primarily a military and naval supplier, but evolved into a bespoke tailor for gentlemen. Gieves was located at 27 Bond St. London, so technically they were not a Savile Row tailor, although they were located within 2 blocks of Savile Row. In 1974, they acquired Hawkes & Co., which was located at No 1 Savile Row, so then officially became a Savile Row tailor. Hawkes has an even longer history, originally founded in 1771 by Thomas Hawkes. It became a military tailor in 1860 and was the first bespoke tailor on Savile Row to offer ready to wear suits, during the 1920s
Colour: Brownish grey with a deep brown velvet collar
Material: Pure new wool with viscose lining
Sizing: Size 44 S is indicated on the interior pocket, but please rely on the following measurements for fit, taken from the exterior (please take the thickness of the fabric and the cut of the coat into consideration):
Shoulders: 19” across shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam
Sleeves: 25 1/4” from shoulder/sleeve seam
Sleeve Inseam: 16 1/2” long
Chest: 47” around, taken under the arms
Waist: 45” around
Hips: 47” around
Overall length: 44 1/2“, measured flat
Condition: This coat is in very good condition with no pronounced wear, tear, stains or odours - this looks like it saw little use and was well stored over the years.
This is a superior quality coat with very attractive classic Chesterfield styling - both Chester Barrie and Gieves & Hawkes are known for their tailoring, so this coat will look great on a proper fit!