Vintage 1960s Christian Dior Broadtail Lamb Fur Coat Holt Renfrew Astrakhan Sz S
Brand Poppy's Vintage Clothing
This is a gorgeous vintage Astrakhan/Broadtail fur coat designed by Christian Dior exclusively for and made by Holt Renfrew of Canada. Judging by the style of the coat, I would date it to the early 1960s. Holt Renfrew has roots dating back to 1834, originally based in Quebec City, and eventually becoming known for its high quality furs, being granted the title “Furriers in Ordinary” by Queen Victoria and then becoming Royal Warrant Furriers to Queen Alexandra, King Edward VII and King George V.
After WWII, due to European markets being devastated, Parisian haute couture fashion houses turned to North American markets. Holt Renfrew established a relationship with many couturiers, importing exclusive French fashion. It is through this relationship, and Holt Renfrew’s expertise in fur manufacturing that a coat like this of original design would be licensed to Holt Renfrew by Dior.
The pelts on this coat are stamped “H. Basch & Co. Inc. Lammoiré Hammer Brand Processed in U.S.A.”. H. Basch & Co. is a Brooklyn based fur processor, registered in 1933 and known as a quality supplier of Russian broadtail, aka “Astrakhan”.
The coat is made in an attractive above the knee length, with a defined dropped waist. The fur is cut below the waist in such a way that the lower coat takes on the appearance somewhat of a skirt. The coat has a three button closure, although the top button can be left undone so that the coat has lapels and an open neckline. When the top button is done up it has a squared collar. It has above-the-wrist length sleeves, typical of early 60s fashion, so that one can show off their gloves. It is lined in a green and black striped silk taffeta. The buttons are studded with black rhinestones.
Sizing: No size is indicated, but this should fit a small size - please rely on the following exterior measurements for fit, taking the thickness of the fur into account (compare measurements with a similar fur coat that you presently own or to your own body measurements, and also taking the cut of the garment into account, noting the narrow shoulders):
Shoulders: 14” across from one shoulder/sleeve seam to the other
Sleeves: 22” from the shoulder/sleeve seam
Sleeve inseam: 15 1/2”
Bust: 34” around, taken under the arms
Waist: 33” around
Hips: 37” around
Overall length: 38”, measured flat
Condition: It is in very good condition - a bit of discolouration to the lining at one armpit (please see the second to last close-up photo) and the original owner's name embroidered into the lining - very classy name. The fur appears to be fresh and the pelts appear to be strong - with normal care, such as summer cold storage, this coat should have many years left in it.
This is a superior quality coat - beautiful broadtail, wonderful design, what one would expect from a Christian Dior coat of the period!