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D&E Juliana Jewelry Alexandrite Glass Rhinestone Demi Parure Brooch & Earrings


Brand Poppy's Vintage Clothing

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This is a gorgeous “demi parure” consisting of a brooch and earrings.  I believe that the set was made by De Lizza and Elster (D&E) under their Juliana brand name. 

The brooch measures 2 3/4” by 1 1/2” and the earrings measure 2” in length.  The rhinestones are prong set in a gold toned setting.  The rhinestones are in light yellow, lavender and topaz.

The pieces are unmarked, but Juliana was never signed and only identified by hang tags, which are almost always removed once that the jewelry was used.  There are a number of clues that lead me to identify this as Juliana.  First of all, the set is very glitzy as most Juliana is.  Secondly, the larger stones have open backs while the smaller ones have closed backs - although other manufacturers also used this technique, this is another clue that in combination with other aspects leads to an identification.  Thirdly, the piece contains Alexandrite glass rhinestones - a lavender color that glows green under a UV light (see photo of UV effect).  Juliana often used specialty stones of all types.  Fourthly, the tiered construction of the pieces with the clear rhinestones floating directly above the amber cabochons.  Fifthly, the use of wire to support the floating rhinestones.  Sixthly, the closures looks to be that used by Juliana.  And lastly, the pin appears to be part of the setting, a technique used by D&E.  Despite all of this, I haven’t seen another example exactly like this, so I cannot absolutely attribute the set with 100% certainty.

This is a beautiful brooch and earring set featuring striking form, quality construction and attractive rhinestones....