Vintage 1940s 50s Velvet Smoking Jacket Bonnington by HV Cowie Toronto Size 36

This is a wonderful vintage smoking jacket made by H.V. Cowie of Toronto under their “Bonnington” brand name.  The piece is made of velvet in a very attractive “dusty rose” colour, somewhere between pink and maroon.  It has a shawl collar and has a flapped pocket at either side.  The shoulders are padded in typical 40s fashion, although the jacket may date to the early 50s.  It closes at the waist with a single button covered in matching fabric.  The jacket is fully lined in a reddish purple rayon or acetate fabric.

Age: 1940s, maybe early 1950s

Label: Bonnington Reg’d Tailored by H.V. Cowie Co Limited.  Cowie was founded in 1922 by Hedley Vicars Cowie and specialized in manufacturing and importing menswear.  Bonnington was registered as a brand in 1945.  The company declined after H.V. Cowie’s death in 1965 and the plant was sold in 1967, although they continued activity as an importer until dissolution in 2008. (information courtesy of Jonathan Walford, The Canadian Fashion Institute - please support the institute in any way possible as it is doing excellent work in researching and preserving Canadian fashion).

Retailer label:  Henry Morgan & Co. Limited Montreal.  Henry Morgan & Co. of Montreal was a venerable Montreal department store founded in 1850.  They served a high-end clientele and changed their name and logo to “Morgan’s” in 1957, so this smoking jacket has to pre-date that year.  

Material: Excellent quality velvet - most likely cotton, very soft

Sizing:  Size 36 (medium) is indicated, but please rely on the following measurements for fit:

Shoulders: 17” across seam-to-seam

Sleeves: 25” long

Sleeve Inseam: 18” long

Chest: 39”, taken under the arms

Waist: 36” around

Overall length: 29“, measured flat

Condition: It is in very good condition except for some wear to the Henry Morgan label.  Otherwise, it is clean, with no pronounced wear, tear, soiling or staining. The piece would benefit from a professional pressing.

This is a great example of a vintage smoking jacket - beautiful colour and quality velvet that, with a proper pressing, will look fabulous!