Antique Victorian Jet Snake Serpent Coil Wrap Bracelet Faceted Black Beads c1890

This is an antique Victorian snake or serpent coil bracelet, probably dating to the late 19th century, circa 1880–1900, featuring two rows of individually shaped and faceted black beads believed to be genuine jet, most likely Whitby jet.

The bracelet has a distinctive double-coil construction designed to wrap around the wrist in the manner of a serpent. The beads vary in shape and size, with irregular barrel-shaped and tapered forms, each displaying broad, angular facets that reflect the light. The variations in the individual beads and their faceting suggest that they were individually cut and finished rather than uniformly moulded.

Of particular interest is the sculpted serpent's head at one end of the bracelet, complete with clearly defined circular eyes, nostril and mouth. The head has a polished black surface and detailed modelling that complements the faceted beads.

The beads are threaded onto a flexible metal foundation that allows the bracelet to expand considerably when slipped over the hand and wrist, returning to its smaller circular shape when released.

Snake and serpent jewellery became particularly fashionable during the Victorian period, when the serpent symbolized eternal love and devotion. Jet jewellery was also widely worn during this era, particularly in association with mourning dress. Whitby, England, became an important centre for the production of carved jet jewellery during the 19th century.

The beads have the appearance of genuine jet, with a deep black colour, glossy finish and individually worked facets. The bracelet weighs approximately 18 grams, consistent with the relatively lightweight nature of jet. The material has not been professionally tested.

There is a small gap that exposes the underlying wire foundation. Its position varies as the beads slide along the wire, except for the first and last two beads. It is uncertain whether this is intentional to accommodate the expanding construction or indicates a missing bead. Similar gaps can be seen in other examples of this bracelet design.

The bracelet is unsigned, and its precise country of manufacture is unknown, although English manufacture is considered likely.

Era: Probably late Victorian, circa 1880–1900

Origin: Unknown, possibly English

Material: Faceted black beads believed to be jet, on a flexible metal foundation

Colour: Black

Design: Double-coil snake or serpent wrap bracelet with sculpted head

Diameter at Rest: Approximately 2" (5.1 cm)

Fit: Expands considerably to pass over the hand and accommodate a larger wrist

Weight: 18 grams

Condition: Very good condition. As mentioned, there is a small gap between the beads. The bead immediately behind the serpent's head has an irregular shape and appears to be glued into place, most likely its original construction. The bracelet retains its flexible expanding construction. Please refer to the photographs for details.

An antique serpent bracelet featuring individually faceted black beads that fit into one another and a detailed sculpted snake's head. A distinctive example of Victorian jewellery design.