Antique Victorian Black Wool Cape Beaded Floral Embroidery S. Carsley Montreal

This is an antique Victorian black wool cape, most likely dating to the 1890s to early 1900s, beautifully preserved and featuring elaborate floral appliqué, corded embroidery and black beading. The beads vary slightly in size and have a glossy surface, suggesting glass, although jet remains a possibility.

The cape is fashioned in a fine, medium-weight black fulled wool with a smooth, Melton-like finish. It has a generously flared silhouette, falling from the shoulders in broad folds to a sweeping hemline measuring approximately 104 inches in circumference.

A distinctive feature is the tall, sculptural standing collar, decorated with scrolling floral motifs. The collar has a shaped, slightly flared upper edge and fastens at the centre front with two hooks and eyes.

The front panels feature large, stylized floral motifs resembling thistles, with textured centres, shaped appliqué petals and curling stems and foliage. The designs extend upward from the lower front panels towards the shoulders, with additional decorative flourishes around the lower sides and hemline.

The decoration combines tonal black appliqué, corded golden-brown embroidery and small black beads outlining the floral patterns. The contrast between the matte wool, textured embroidery and reflective beading creates a particularly detailed black-on-black design.

The cape has a concealed centre-front opening, with silk lining along the interior opening edges. The remainder is unlined. Gathered pleats are visible at the inside shoulders, as shown in the photographs. The upper front fastens with two hooks and eyes, although the upper hook is missing but could easily be replaced.

The original woven label reads “S. Carsley Co. Ltd., Montreal.” Carsley was a Montreal department store founded by Samuel Carsley in 1871 on Notre Dame Street. The business relocated to Sainte-Catherine Street in 1909 and subsequently became Goodwin's in 1911. The location later became Montreal's iconic T. Eaton department store.

Carsley was an early pioneer of mail-order retailing in Canada and was known for importing Parisian textiles and fashions. It is possible that this cape was imported rather than manufactured locally. Examples of Carsley merchandise are represented in the collections of the McCord Stewart Museum in Montreal.

The cape's high standing collar, generous proportions and elaborate decoration are characteristic of fashionable outerwear from the late Victorian period. It would have been appropriate for formal or dress occasions and is an interesting surviving example of Montreal retail fashion from the turn of the 20th century.

Measurements

• Shoulders: approximately 15 inches across (estimated)

• Neck: 17 inches

• Bust: approximately 52 inches (must also accommodate the arms)

• Front length: 27 inches from shoulder to hemline

• Side length: 30 inches from neck to hemline

• Hemline circumference: 104 inches

Condition

Excellent condition. Exceptionally clean and well preserved - this looks like it was used once or twice then put away and well stored over the last 135 or so years. The upper hook at the front is missing, a minor repair if desired. 

Label: S. Carsley Co. Ltd., Montreal, Canada.

Period: Late Victorian, circa 1890s–early 1900s.

Material: Wool, silk trim, appliqué, corded embroidery and black glass or possibly jet beads.